It was exactly one year ago to the day that I flew to Dublin for the most amazing adventure of my life. I was frazzled after spending the night in New Jersey (I gave up my seat on an overbooked flight), but I finally made it to Dublin early on the morning of June 28th. I remember getting to the airport and realizing that I had no luggage (minus my carry on) but it didn't discourage me too much. I was too excited to get to my new apartment, of which I'd only seen pictures. The cab took me to 54 Leeson Street in Ranelagh and I waited to meet my letting agent. I had just one day in Dublin as I was flying out the next morning to teach in England, but I accomplished so much that first day. I ran to several shops to get linens and other necessary items for the apartment, met a friend of a friend for drinks that night, and in a rather intoxicated state, made it back to my studio for my first night as an expat. It seems like forever ago.
I can't recap everything that took place over the past year, but hopefully the blog will help me remember all the adventures I had during that time. It's strange to me, but it's sort of a twiglight zone thing happening here recently. I have spoken with other friends about it, friends who have lived away for extensive periods of time. I know that you have reverse culture shock upon your return to home and I expected it, but I can't quite describe what exactly it is. It's hard to believe that I was gone all that time. It's hard to believe I actually lived in Dublin, and then in Milan. I miss it so much and I find myself yearning to return (more so to Dublin). At the same time, I'm so unbelievably happy to be home. I'm having a fantastic time catching up with friends and family and am constantly amazed by the simplicity of things here (it's much easier to accomplish tasks here) .
I know I have changed in the past year and a half since Dad passed and I can tell you, despite that awful experience, everything since has by far surpassed any dreams I may have had. I am a better person for the time I spent away and I'm thankful, more than you'll ever know, of the friends and family who supported me through it all. I became a calmer, yet more adventurous person. I learned to be more appreciative of what I have and at the same time, to go out seeking more of God's wonders. I am now mindfully aware of the simple blessings bestowed upon us and I try to give credit where credit is due. My personality has changed because, through all my travels, I discovered myself. "It’s a curious thing that happens, it seems when we get to a place where no one knows us, we become most ourselves…trying new things, making new friends, laughing out loud, and dancing in the streets.” Lucky for me, I had the opportunity to do all this and I thank God for making it happen.
So we're left with "It Comes to This..." In certain cirsumstances, that can sound a bad thing, but I am happy to say that I'm not looking back sorrowfully to the loss of my Dad and I'm not living in the year I had abroad or woefully reminiscing about what happened and how I'm here now. "One problem with gazing too frequently into the past is that we may turn around to find the future has run out on us." My future is bright...my life in Charleston is beginning again and it's exciting. I've got lots planned (as usual) and will be quite busy working on several interesting projects. I'm enthusiastic about trips I'm sure I'll take, but I'm also happy to be here in Charleston with loved ones and thankful that those dear friends I met abroad will be part of my life, in one way or another, in the future. In "It Comes to This," "This" is life, and life is looking good!
Wednesday, June 27, 2012
Tuesday, May 15, 2012
The Great Adventure
Hard to believe that in a few hours I'll be boarding a plane to head back to Charleston. Harder to believe that I've spent the last 11 months living in Europe. At this time a year ago I was planning an adventure that I had no idea would end up changing my life. I knew I'd see some sites, meet some people, eat some great food, etc., but never in my wildest imagination would I have anticipated all that actually lie ahead, and now as I begin to write something to explain just how blessed I've been along the way, tears are already streaming down my face.
It all goes back to Dad, as you know, who encouraged me to follow my dreams. It also helped that he financially supported my first few European trips with Carol Poole (who deserves all the credit for me getting the travel bug in the first place)! Then, acknowledgement also goes to Mom, for her support before and after Dad passed, and the amazing love she's always shown. That woman is the ultimate. T'Lene and Edgar went above and beyond because, as they didn't necessarily want me to leave and surely didn't enjoy all the favors I asked of them while I was away, they loved and supported me through everything. My amazing friends who missed me yet encouraged me, I couldn't name you all, but you are loved and appreciated. There is also the faculty and staff at Stiles Point Elementary, who were ridiculously supportive before and during. More thanks goes out to all of you that I met along the way, but I'll get to you shortly...
On June 26, 2011 I boarded a plane for Ireland, but en route, was called to work for a company in England, so I flew to Dublin, ran to some shops to buy necessary linens and household items, met a contact I'd only emailed a few times for a drink, slept one night in my new apartment (which I'd never seen before that day), caught a flight to England and taught for three weeks. Wow, that seems like a LIFETIME ago.
I flew back to Dublin and attempted to sort out my life, hoping to get a visa and therefore a job, and wishing I knew more than one person! The magnificent Luke O'Mahony (who you'll remember I met years ago on an EF tour) didn't need me hounding him for advice in both the work and social scenes...I slowly adjusted to the Irish way of life. I don't really even recall my first weeks in Dublin, but that's probably because I spent much of it travelling. First I met two Carolina boys, Ryan and Jonathan, and headed down to Cork. Then I spent a lot of time with Allan in Wales and Scotland. I met Ryan and Jonathan again in Paris (along with Angela) for a weekend and my mom came to visit Dublin for a week. That was just through August!
I think sometime after T'Lene's visit in September and my amazing birthday party with my sister, Jeremy, and all my new friends (Jamie, Tommy, Amy, Jim, Chelsea, Adam, and Josh), I realized there would be no visa and I needed to find some other sort of work. That's when I put an ad on Gumtree (like Craig's List) and was interviewed to babysit for little Ari. I started tutoring Andre. It was near this time that Luke invited me to help at DCU also. Finally things looked good for me...I would have some income.
I kept enjoying weekends with Allan and other friends, like when Beth and Greg came to visit in October. I met more contacts and really felt good about myself, but I was constantly worried about the future because I wasn't making enough to offset the cost of living (and travelling) and I didn't want to go through savings so quickly. I had just written and begun the publishing process for my books, but that wouldn't be enough to help me, at least not quickly enough.
In November, Allan and I called an end to our relationship and I had to deal with the one year anniversary of Dad's passing. I was miserable. Luckily, I had support from Jamie (God knew what he was doing when he introduced us) and the opportunity to visit family of friends down in Brighton Beach, England. Despite the horrid stomach bug we all contracted that weekend, it was a much needed escape and I am thankful to Bud and Eugenie for allowing me to come.
In the beginning of December, I took an amazing trip to Tuscany with Jamie and Kit (who was living in Germany at the time) and enjoyed what I thought would be my last hurrah abroad. I assumed when I went home for Christmas, I'd have to stay. I was really disappointed and remember talking to T'Lene about how much I would let myself down if I didn't return to Europe...it was a goal to stay a year, and I needed to reach that goal. I had to prove to myself I could do it.
Many thoughts went through my head. I had previously considered moving to Wales to be with Allan and to attend school, but that wouldn't work now. I didn't want to come home, but I didn't see a way to stay in Ireland either. Luckily, the Lord had a plan for me and I just didn't see it yet. I had been praying about it and trying to trust Him, but I found it so difficult. That was the hardest part. How do you KNOW what the Lord wants you to do? I asked my pastor and mother for guidance and I'm sure a number of others got an ear full from me during this time.
Something finally came about. Just before I went to Italy with the girls, I put a profile together on a website called AuPair World. I was contacted by several families, but I began talking to one seriously and in early December, the decision was made for me to return to Italy. Now we were talking...I had a chance to continue the adventure abroad!
The next few days flew and on my last weekend in Dublin, at a party with Luke, I met a lovely guy who whisked me off my feet. He was beautiful, and I think that last weekend was a dream honestly...more like a movie than real life. It was nothing but romantic: walks along the sea, staring into one another's eyes...goofy in a way because it didn't seem real. I suppose it wasn't. It was absolutely an amazing way to end the adventure in Dublin though and to give me hope about the future. He even drove me to the airport and toted all my luggage for me, then bought me breakfast and waited for me to pass through security. Thank you, dear Marcin, for being such a gentleman.
It was December 18th, 2011 when I arrived at the Charleston International Airport. I was greeted by my dear sister, Ashley Henson, Amy Freeman and Dave (posters of my man). It was such a surprise. My sister's always so thoughtful. I slept in my own bed that night and was delighted. I visited with everyone I possibly could during the time I was home, but of course, it flew. In January, I packed all my things again and headed to Milan.
I had a terrible flight path from Charleston to Miami, Miami to London, and London to Milan Linate. Luckily for me, the longest flight from Miami to London was a pleasant one. I sat in the middle row with two empty seats between me and the passenger on my left, who fortunately was a nice young guy from England. We chatted until I could no longer keep my eyes open, and exchanged contact info before we exited the plane. My new friend Andy has ensured me he'll come visit in Charleston as he never made it to Milan to see me!
I remember getting off the plane at Linate and waiting hours for luggage that never came, then walking through the doors and meeting Daniele who drove me to the apartment to meet his family. I came through the door and everyone greeted me so warmly. It wasn't awkward in any way; I didn't feel like a stranger in the least bit.
Although I felt comfortable, I questioned my purpose here because I had intended to be teaching English quite often, but at first, I seemed to be a chauffeur more than anything else. As the weeks passed and I learned my responsibilities in the family, I tried to also build a social life. I bonded with Connie (from home but living here) and Katy, met Gianluca, Micole, Alessandro, Charlie, Abby, Gianni and others, relied on dear old Luke again to put me in contact with an English school here, and attempted to make the most of my time. In February, I went skiing with the family in Aprica and to Verona with Katy. In March, I did more small side trips and went back to Dublin for St. Patrick's Day. In April, I spent a week in Hungary (alone but loving every minute of it) and in May, Katy invited me to Morocco to enjoy a Groupon she had procured. Life was uncomplicated, and oh so exciting!
During the time I was actually in Milan, I grew to love the family. I think it was really in the last month that we truly came to enjoy each other's company...it was just in time too, as the days were passing and my departure was becoming a reality. The children, Matteo and Elena, also known as "ME," were entertaining if nothing else! They are bright, creative, funny, loving and playful. I will miss them and I know my house in Charleston is going to be so quiet after living with the two of them. I suggested I record their banter so I can play it when I'm lonely, or when I need a good laugh!
I learned a great deal about myself during this year away from my home, family, and friends. I learned how to be humble for one...God's created a unbelievably stunning world for us to live in and I am honored and blessed to have had the opportunity to travel it, I'm also eager to see more! I learned who my true friends are, and am overwhelmed at how many of you there are! I learned that you can be happy with simple, simple things in life. Please appreciate them all. I learned how important it is to show the ones you love that you do care and that they are valued. I know I am a better person for having taken this trip. I thank God that He allowed me the chance to explore all that I did. I thank God that He never doubted me, even when I doubted myself, and I thank Him for introducing me to some friends that will FOREVER be in my heart. All my love to those of you who made my adventure abroad a memorable one. My appreciation is not enough, my words won't aptly express my true gratitude, but I am honored to have you in my life and I am so grateful for the time we spent together.
So, it's not goodbye, I won't say farewell. It's until next time, until whatever great adventure may be in store, but at this moment...I've got a plane to catch!!
It all goes back to Dad, as you know, who encouraged me to follow my dreams. It also helped that he financially supported my first few European trips with Carol Poole (who deserves all the credit for me getting the travel bug in the first place)! Then, acknowledgement also goes to Mom, for her support before and after Dad passed, and the amazing love she's always shown. That woman is the ultimate. T'Lene and Edgar went above and beyond because, as they didn't necessarily want me to leave and surely didn't enjoy all the favors I asked of them while I was away, they loved and supported me through everything. My amazing friends who missed me yet encouraged me, I couldn't name you all, but you are loved and appreciated. There is also the faculty and staff at Stiles Point Elementary, who were ridiculously supportive before and during. More thanks goes out to all of you that I met along the way, but I'll get to you shortly...
On June 26, 2011 I boarded a plane for Ireland, but en route, was called to work for a company in England, so I flew to Dublin, ran to some shops to buy necessary linens and household items, met a contact I'd only emailed a few times for a drink, slept one night in my new apartment (which I'd never seen before that day), caught a flight to England and taught for three weeks. Wow, that seems like a LIFETIME ago.
I flew back to Dublin and attempted to sort out my life, hoping to get a visa and therefore a job, and wishing I knew more than one person! The magnificent Luke O'Mahony (who you'll remember I met years ago on an EF tour) didn't need me hounding him for advice in both the work and social scenes...I slowly adjusted to the Irish way of life. I don't really even recall my first weeks in Dublin, but that's probably because I spent much of it travelling. First I met two Carolina boys, Ryan and Jonathan, and headed down to Cork. Then I spent a lot of time with Allan in Wales and Scotland. I met Ryan and Jonathan again in Paris (along with Angela) for a weekend and my mom came to visit Dublin for a week. That was just through August!
I think sometime after T'Lene's visit in September and my amazing birthday party with my sister, Jeremy, and all my new friends (Jamie, Tommy, Amy, Jim, Chelsea, Adam, and Josh), I realized there would be no visa and I needed to find some other sort of work. That's when I put an ad on Gumtree (like Craig's List) and was interviewed to babysit for little Ari. I started tutoring Andre. It was near this time that Luke invited me to help at DCU also. Finally things looked good for me...I would have some income.
I kept enjoying weekends with Allan and other friends, like when Beth and Greg came to visit in October. I met more contacts and really felt good about myself, but I was constantly worried about the future because I wasn't making enough to offset the cost of living (and travelling) and I didn't want to go through savings so quickly. I had just written and begun the publishing process for my books, but that wouldn't be enough to help me, at least not quickly enough.
In November, Allan and I called an end to our relationship and I had to deal with the one year anniversary of Dad's passing. I was miserable. Luckily, I had support from Jamie (God knew what he was doing when he introduced us) and the opportunity to visit family of friends down in Brighton Beach, England. Despite the horrid stomach bug we all contracted that weekend, it was a much needed escape and I am thankful to Bud and Eugenie for allowing me to come.
In the beginning of December, I took an amazing trip to Tuscany with Jamie and Kit (who was living in Germany at the time) and enjoyed what I thought would be my last hurrah abroad. I assumed when I went home for Christmas, I'd have to stay. I was really disappointed and remember talking to T'Lene about how much I would let myself down if I didn't return to Europe...it was a goal to stay a year, and I needed to reach that goal. I had to prove to myself I could do it.
Many thoughts went through my head. I had previously considered moving to Wales to be with Allan and to attend school, but that wouldn't work now. I didn't want to come home, but I didn't see a way to stay in Ireland either. Luckily, the Lord had a plan for me and I just didn't see it yet. I had been praying about it and trying to trust Him, but I found it so difficult. That was the hardest part. How do you KNOW what the Lord wants you to do? I asked my pastor and mother for guidance and I'm sure a number of others got an ear full from me during this time.
Something finally came about. Just before I went to Italy with the girls, I put a profile together on a website called AuPair World. I was contacted by several families, but I began talking to one seriously and in early December, the decision was made for me to return to Italy. Now we were talking...I had a chance to continue the adventure abroad!
The next few days flew and on my last weekend in Dublin, at a party with Luke, I met a lovely guy who whisked me off my feet. He was beautiful, and I think that last weekend was a dream honestly...more like a movie than real life. It was nothing but romantic: walks along the sea, staring into one another's eyes...goofy in a way because it didn't seem real. I suppose it wasn't. It was absolutely an amazing way to end the adventure in Dublin though and to give me hope about the future. He even drove me to the airport and toted all my luggage for me, then bought me breakfast and waited for me to pass through security. Thank you, dear Marcin, for being such a gentleman.
It was December 18th, 2011 when I arrived at the Charleston International Airport. I was greeted by my dear sister, Ashley Henson, Amy Freeman and Dave (posters of my man). It was such a surprise. My sister's always so thoughtful. I slept in my own bed that night and was delighted. I visited with everyone I possibly could during the time I was home, but of course, it flew. In January, I packed all my things again and headed to Milan.
I had a terrible flight path from Charleston to Miami, Miami to London, and London to Milan Linate. Luckily for me, the longest flight from Miami to London was a pleasant one. I sat in the middle row with two empty seats between me and the passenger on my left, who fortunately was a nice young guy from England. We chatted until I could no longer keep my eyes open, and exchanged contact info before we exited the plane. My new friend Andy has ensured me he'll come visit in Charleston as he never made it to Milan to see me!
I remember getting off the plane at Linate and waiting hours for luggage that never came, then walking through the doors and meeting Daniele who drove me to the apartment to meet his family. I came through the door and everyone greeted me so warmly. It wasn't awkward in any way; I didn't feel like a stranger in the least bit.
Although I felt comfortable, I questioned my purpose here because I had intended to be teaching English quite often, but at first, I seemed to be a chauffeur more than anything else. As the weeks passed and I learned my responsibilities in the family, I tried to also build a social life. I bonded with Connie (from home but living here) and Katy, met Gianluca, Micole, Alessandro, Charlie, Abby, Gianni and others, relied on dear old Luke again to put me in contact with an English school here, and attempted to make the most of my time. In February, I went skiing with the family in Aprica and to Verona with Katy. In March, I did more small side trips and went back to Dublin for St. Patrick's Day. In April, I spent a week in Hungary (alone but loving every minute of it) and in May, Katy invited me to Morocco to enjoy a Groupon she had procured. Life was uncomplicated, and oh so exciting!
During the time I was actually in Milan, I grew to love the family. I think it was really in the last month that we truly came to enjoy each other's company...it was just in time too, as the days were passing and my departure was becoming a reality. The children, Matteo and Elena, also known as "ME," were entertaining if nothing else! They are bright, creative, funny, loving and playful. I will miss them and I know my house in Charleston is going to be so quiet after living with the two of them. I suggested I record their banter so I can play it when I'm lonely, or when I need a good laugh!
I learned a great deal about myself during this year away from my home, family, and friends. I learned how to be humble for one...God's created a unbelievably stunning world for us to live in and I am honored and blessed to have had the opportunity to travel it, I'm also eager to see more! I learned who my true friends are, and am overwhelmed at how many of you there are! I learned that you can be happy with simple, simple things in life. Please appreciate them all. I learned how important it is to show the ones you love that you do care and that they are valued. I know I am a better person for having taken this trip. I thank God that He allowed me the chance to explore all that I did. I thank God that He never doubted me, even when I doubted myself, and I thank Him for introducing me to some friends that will FOREVER be in my heart. All my love to those of you who made my adventure abroad a memorable one. My appreciation is not enough, my words won't aptly express my true gratitude, but I am honored to have you in my life and I am so grateful for the time we spent together.
So, it's not goodbye, I won't say farewell. It's until next time, until whatever great adventure may be in store, but at this moment...I've got a plane to catch!!
Monday, May 14, 2012
Mad Fun in Morocco
I have been fortunate to have travelled as much as I have in the last year. I've been on three different continents and in 9 different countries. Is that amazing or what? It's been such blessing.
Two weekends ago, I was able to visit Africa for the first time! I only spent a few days in Marrakech, but it was amazing and I will absolutely try and get back to explore more of that continent in the future!
Katy, my new best friend (I love how many of you there are!), invited me to Morocco and she got a Groupon to an amazing resort so we could really live it up. We stayed at the Hotel Kenzi Club Agdal Medina and had everything we needed at our fingertips.
We flew down early on Saturday morning and took an overly priced cab to our hotel. We were in awe upon arrival, and quickly greeted with a hot mint tea. We weren't able to check into our room for a few hours, but the bellman took our bags and we walked towards the pools. It was a beautiful day so we got a drink and sat in the sun, then decided we needed to change into our bathing suits...why waste any time?!
We stayed at the pool drinking our complimentary drinks and soaking in the rays, until it was lunch time. The buffet had a mix of cuisines, but we both stayed away from the Italian section and opted for more traditional Moroccan food. It was amazing. After lunch, we went back to the pool and continued bronzing.
That evening we rested in the hotel room a while then showered and got ready for dinner. We stayed at the hotel and had another great selection at the buffet. We contemplated going in to town that night, but the shuttle wasn't running and neither of us really felt like getting another taxi. It was a laid back day and night, but very much enjoyed. It was funny, but as we both live in small flats in Milan and sleep in tiny little twin beds, we enjoyed the California Queen we had in our room and were quite content watching TV and drinking wine.
We woke up on Saturday morning, had another beautiful meal for breakfast, and scheduled our shuttle to the city center. We wanted to spend some hours browsing the markets. It was an unreal experience. The energy was something like I'd never seen before. By far, Marrakech is the most exotic place I've been. I think I most enjoyed watching all the women dressed in there kaftans and veils ride on the scooters that buzz through town. The streets were lined with beautiful roses and many gardeners were out tending the flowers. The architecture was what you'd expect, but there were tons of demolished buildings and dirt fields where new buildings were attempting to pop up. I don't know much about Marrakech or the economy there, but it seems like they are trying to revamp the place, yet keep the tradition alive. I will say, the people were all very friendly. I really appreciated the amount of hospitality we were shown.
Katy and I tried our hand at haggling and did a pretty good job, getting two "genuine fake" bags. I got talked into a Henna tattoo and Katy was almost roped into having a monkey sit on her shoulder! We ran quickly from this guy. Pictures don't do the city justice, not because of it's overwhelming beauty or anything, but because of the energy and the color. I attempted videoing some of it, but you have to be really careful about that sort of thing as most of the locals won't even allow you to take their photo.
We were only in the center a few hours and then headed back to the hotel for lunch and pool time. I think we were both seriously Vitamin D deprived! That evening, we had a complimentary entrance into the steam rooms and booked pedicures, but unfortunately our schedule didn't allow time for that. We had a lovely dinner again at the hotel and then returned to our room. Our flight would leave the next Morning.
We didn't get a lot of time in Marrakech, as I said, but the resort itself was so nice, I think I would have enjoyed just that. If we had more time, I definitely would have explored the area more. I would have loved to take a camel ride. That just gives me an excuse to go back one day! The girls' trip was just what I needed before ending my year abroad, and I was fortunate to spend it with a great friend.
Two weekends ago, I was able to visit Africa for the first time! I only spent a few days in Marrakech, but it was amazing and I will absolutely try and get back to explore more of that continent in the future!
Katy, my new best friend (I love how many of you there are!), invited me to Morocco and she got a Groupon to an amazing resort so we could really live it up. We stayed at the Hotel Kenzi Club Agdal Medina and had everything we needed at our fingertips.
We flew down early on Saturday morning and took an overly priced cab to our hotel. We were in awe upon arrival, and quickly greeted with a hot mint tea. We weren't able to check into our room for a few hours, but the bellman took our bags and we walked towards the pools. It was a beautiful day so we got a drink and sat in the sun, then decided we needed to change into our bathing suits...why waste any time?!
We stayed at the pool drinking our complimentary drinks and soaking in the rays, until it was lunch time. The buffet had a mix of cuisines, but we both stayed away from the Italian section and opted for more traditional Moroccan food. It was amazing. After lunch, we went back to the pool and continued bronzing.
That evening we rested in the hotel room a while then showered and got ready for dinner. We stayed at the hotel and had another great selection at the buffet. We contemplated going in to town that night, but the shuttle wasn't running and neither of us really felt like getting another taxi. It was a laid back day and night, but very much enjoyed. It was funny, but as we both live in small flats in Milan and sleep in tiny little twin beds, we enjoyed the California Queen we had in our room and were quite content watching TV and drinking wine.
We woke up on Saturday morning, had another beautiful meal for breakfast, and scheduled our shuttle to the city center. We wanted to spend some hours browsing the markets. It was an unreal experience. The energy was something like I'd never seen before. By far, Marrakech is the most exotic place I've been. I think I most enjoyed watching all the women dressed in there kaftans and veils ride on the scooters that buzz through town. The streets were lined with beautiful roses and many gardeners were out tending the flowers. The architecture was what you'd expect, but there were tons of demolished buildings and dirt fields where new buildings were attempting to pop up. I don't know much about Marrakech or the economy there, but it seems like they are trying to revamp the place, yet keep the tradition alive. I will say, the people were all very friendly. I really appreciated the amount of hospitality we were shown.
Katy and I tried our hand at haggling and did a pretty good job, getting two "genuine fake" bags. I got talked into a Henna tattoo and Katy was almost roped into having a monkey sit on her shoulder! We ran quickly from this guy. Pictures don't do the city justice, not because of it's overwhelming beauty or anything, but because of the energy and the color. I attempted videoing some of it, but you have to be really careful about that sort of thing as most of the locals won't even allow you to take their photo.
We were only in the center a few hours and then headed back to the hotel for lunch and pool time. I think we were both seriously Vitamin D deprived! That evening, we had a complimentary entrance into the steam rooms and booked pedicures, but unfortunately our schedule didn't allow time for that. We had a lovely dinner again at the hotel and then returned to our room. Our flight would leave the next Morning.
We didn't get a lot of time in Marrakech, as I said, but the resort itself was so nice, I think I would have enjoyed just that. If we had more time, I definitely would have explored the area more. I would have loved to take a camel ride. That just gives me an excuse to go back one day! The girls' trip was just what I needed before ending my year abroad, and I was fortunate to spend it with a great friend.
Thursday, May 10, 2012
Schooled
As you know, I'm a teacher. It's not a title I have because it happens to be my job; it's a title I feel I earned because of my passion. There's not a bone in my body that doesn't have this mark. Even during this year abroad when I've not had the "title," I've said I was a teacher because I am. I teach every day, in one way or another.
Living in Ireland was great, but unfortunately I didn't get to have a classroom there as I expected. I did, thanks to my great friend Luke, get to participate in teaching at Dublin City University. I also tutored in Ireland, as you probably know, so that made me happy.
I came to Italy with the intention of teaching these kids English. I ended up more of a chauffeur than anything else, but we did have our occasional English lessons. I think more of what they learned from me was by my actions than by my lessons. You know how they say that kids are always watching and they imitate their parents? It's the same sort of thing here. I think, whether they know it or not, they learned from me because of who I am. I say please and thank you. I acknowledge them each day. I don't curse, I don't say shut up, I don't insult them. I believe that I set a good example for them and that they have a little seed planted inside them now, that hopefully, will grow. I will say I've noticed a lot more please and thank yous and how are yous in the past few months than when I first came. Yesterday, separately, both kids asked me how my aunt was doing. This was such a sweet thing because my aunt's been very sick with Cancer and in the hospital, so to hear them both, completely unknown to the other, ask this really touched my heart.
I have learned too. I have learned a lot actually. I've learned that no family is perfect, even though I've always put mine on a pedestal. I've learned that we all have skeletons in our closets. I have an amazing family and we love each other dearly, but we were never really touchy feely love kind of people. I don't recall lots of hugs and kisses. I don't remember my parents holding hands except on a few occasions. This may sound completely strange to some of you, but it's what I grew up with. We say "I love you" often and we certainly showed it in other ways, but hugs weren't given out freely. This family is very much the opposite. Quite often the kids (even at 11 and 15) get kisses from their mom. They lie on the sofa with legs intertwined. They are playful in a way I don't recall being with my parents. This is a beautiful thing and I hope I can take the good of their family and mine and one day implement a mixture of these qualities into my own family (God willing I have one).
In a completely different area of schooling I learned something else. This goes back to the teacher in me. I asked and asked if I'd be able to get into Matteo or Elena's schools for observations, lessons, or just to meet the teacher. I was told repeatedly that it wasn't possible. Wouldn't you know my persistence paid off though and I was able to get to Matteo's teacher a few weeks ago! I met with her on a Friday and the following Monday I went to observe classes. I then continued to observe/assist for the following three weeks. I taught lessons in grammar and then finally was invited to do a special lesson of my choice. I chose Gia's adventures in Charleston as a way to segue into a lesson on Charleston itself. Many of the kids had been learning about holiday spots so I thought this was appropriate. The lesson didn't go as I would have really liked, but I had to make do with what I had. You see, the schools here in Milan are very different. Ok, this school is very different, but I'm told they are typical for Italy. I found it to be so strange...
On my first day, I arrived into this 6 story building and headed up to the teacher's lounge. There sat all the "profs" as they are know to the kids. No one goes by "Ms. Salters" for example. Even the kids aren't addressed by their first names, it's always their surname that they are called. The classes are separated by year, which I still don't fully understand. For example, Matteo's in first year (which I would equate to 9th grade) but I think after that it gets a bit confusing. The classes of kids stay in one room all day and the teachers rotate. This means that the "profs" have to carry with them whatever they need for lessons, and from what I saw, it was never much. There were no supplemental materials past worksheets and occasionally a stereo.
As I entered the classrooms, I was amazed at how little I saw. There were one, maybe two, posters on the walls and the rest was bare. There was a white board and above it a small crucifix. There was a platform (about 4 inches high) at the front of the room where a teacher's desk sat, and in it, the teacher remained throughout the lesson. This blew my mind. It's lecture at the most boring level. There is no way I could sit in front of my class and speak to them in this way. I have to be up and moving to keep my energy level high and to keep their attention. How can you possibly monitor if you're not walking around? You can't! The few days I walked through the classes while the prof lectured, I found many kids off task and their assignments either not complete or not correct.
Another thing that flabbergasted me was the use of "interrogations." Yes, these poor kids are put on the spot quite literally where they go to the prof's desk (in front of the class) and are interviewed on a topic from class. This means that the prof gets to know exactly what each student is thinking and understanding, BUT it means that the remainder of the students (20-29 depending on class size) have to sit and listen. What a waste of class time? How can you possibly think it's ok to allow 28 students to twiddle their thumbs for a hour? I understand that they should be listening and perhaps even taking notes on what the interrogation is covering, but let's be realistic here, they aren't! I have so many issues with this method, but obviously it's not my war to fight.
It interests me that the teachers are given so much freedom in the schools here. I showed them the standards I have to follow, which I do believe are a bit overkill, but at least we have guidelines. The profs here choose what they want and teach how they want and thus there is no consistency. Within Matteo's school I did see all three English profs using similar books and lessons, but I think it's because Matteo's prof is quite the leader and the other two seem to follow. I appreciate this because it means they must plan together so they collaborate on some level.
I have to get up on a soap box for a minute and then I promise I'll end this blog. We may have low scores in South Carolina and we may not be known for our success in the classroom across our country, but we know what we are doing at Stiles Point. Our teachers are well educated and well established. We have teaching methods and best practice that would blow some schools out of the water. We're lucky in Charleston County because we have many fine schools. I'm sure I could investigate further and find teachers that "wow" me in Italy, but of the little I observed here, I was not impressed. I can't imagine being a high schooler here and having to sit through hour after hour of lecture. I never saw hands on, I never saw group work (unless I assigned it), and I never saw engaging...never. I believe that education is supposed to ignite an interest in learning, not just from a textbook, but in every aspect of life. These kids, in my opinion, could have cared less. I am not perfect, I am not the best teacher in the world, and I don't know every method for engaging my learners, but I can tell you that my classroom is inviting and I feel pretty confident that my learners "get it." That's more than I can say for what I saw here.
Living in Ireland was great, but unfortunately I didn't get to have a classroom there as I expected. I did, thanks to my great friend Luke, get to participate in teaching at Dublin City University. I also tutored in Ireland, as you probably know, so that made me happy.
I came to Italy with the intention of teaching these kids English. I ended up more of a chauffeur than anything else, but we did have our occasional English lessons. I think more of what they learned from me was by my actions than by my lessons. You know how they say that kids are always watching and they imitate their parents? It's the same sort of thing here. I think, whether they know it or not, they learned from me because of who I am. I say please and thank you. I acknowledge them each day. I don't curse, I don't say shut up, I don't insult them. I believe that I set a good example for them and that they have a little seed planted inside them now, that hopefully, will grow. I will say I've noticed a lot more please and thank yous and how are yous in the past few months than when I first came. Yesterday, separately, both kids asked me how my aunt was doing. This was such a sweet thing because my aunt's been very sick with Cancer and in the hospital, so to hear them both, completely unknown to the other, ask this really touched my heart.
I have learned too. I have learned a lot actually. I've learned that no family is perfect, even though I've always put mine on a pedestal. I've learned that we all have skeletons in our closets. I have an amazing family and we love each other dearly, but we were never really touchy feely love kind of people. I don't recall lots of hugs and kisses. I don't remember my parents holding hands except on a few occasions. This may sound completely strange to some of you, but it's what I grew up with. We say "I love you" often and we certainly showed it in other ways, but hugs weren't given out freely. This family is very much the opposite. Quite often the kids (even at 11 and 15) get kisses from their mom. They lie on the sofa with legs intertwined. They are playful in a way I don't recall being with my parents. This is a beautiful thing and I hope I can take the good of their family and mine and one day implement a mixture of these qualities into my own family (God willing I have one).
In a completely different area of schooling I learned something else. This goes back to the teacher in me. I asked and asked if I'd be able to get into Matteo or Elena's schools for observations, lessons, or just to meet the teacher. I was told repeatedly that it wasn't possible. Wouldn't you know my persistence paid off though and I was able to get to Matteo's teacher a few weeks ago! I met with her on a Friday and the following Monday I went to observe classes. I then continued to observe/assist for the following three weeks. I taught lessons in grammar and then finally was invited to do a special lesson of my choice. I chose Gia's adventures in Charleston as a way to segue into a lesson on Charleston itself. Many of the kids had been learning about holiday spots so I thought this was appropriate. The lesson didn't go as I would have really liked, but I had to make do with what I had. You see, the schools here in Milan are very different. Ok, this school is very different, but I'm told they are typical for Italy. I found it to be so strange...
On my first day, I arrived into this 6 story building and headed up to the teacher's lounge. There sat all the "profs" as they are know to the kids. No one goes by "Ms. Salters" for example. Even the kids aren't addressed by their first names, it's always their surname that they are called. The classes are separated by year, which I still don't fully understand. For example, Matteo's in first year (which I would equate to 9th grade) but I think after that it gets a bit confusing. The classes of kids stay in one room all day and the teachers rotate. This means that the "profs" have to carry with them whatever they need for lessons, and from what I saw, it was never much. There were no supplemental materials past worksheets and occasionally a stereo.
As I entered the classrooms, I was amazed at how little I saw. There were one, maybe two, posters on the walls and the rest was bare. There was a white board and above it a small crucifix. There was a platform (about 4 inches high) at the front of the room where a teacher's desk sat, and in it, the teacher remained throughout the lesson. This blew my mind. It's lecture at the most boring level. There is no way I could sit in front of my class and speak to them in this way. I have to be up and moving to keep my energy level high and to keep their attention. How can you possibly monitor if you're not walking around? You can't! The few days I walked through the classes while the prof lectured, I found many kids off task and their assignments either not complete or not correct.
Another thing that flabbergasted me was the use of "interrogations." Yes, these poor kids are put on the spot quite literally where they go to the prof's desk (in front of the class) and are interviewed on a topic from class. This means that the prof gets to know exactly what each student is thinking and understanding, BUT it means that the remainder of the students (20-29 depending on class size) have to sit and listen. What a waste of class time? How can you possibly think it's ok to allow 28 students to twiddle their thumbs for a hour? I understand that they should be listening and perhaps even taking notes on what the interrogation is covering, but let's be realistic here, they aren't! I have so many issues with this method, but obviously it's not my war to fight.
It interests me that the teachers are given so much freedom in the schools here. I showed them the standards I have to follow, which I do believe are a bit overkill, but at least we have guidelines. The profs here choose what they want and teach how they want and thus there is no consistency. Within Matteo's school I did see all three English profs using similar books and lessons, but I think it's because Matteo's prof is quite the leader and the other two seem to follow. I appreciate this because it means they must plan together so they collaborate on some level.
I have to get up on a soap box for a minute and then I promise I'll end this blog. We may have low scores in South Carolina and we may not be known for our success in the classroom across our country, but we know what we are doing at Stiles Point. Our teachers are well educated and well established. We have teaching methods and best practice that would blow some schools out of the water. We're lucky in Charleston County because we have many fine schools. I'm sure I could investigate further and find teachers that "wow" me in Italy, but of the little I observed here, I was not impressed. I can't imagine being a high schooler here and having to sit through hour after hour of lecture. I never saw hands on, I never saw group work (unless I assigned it), and I never saw engaging...never. I believe that education is supposed to ignite an interest in learning, not just from a textbook, but in every aspect of life. These kids, in my opinion, could have cared less. I am not perfect, I am not the best teacher in the world, and I don't know every method for engaging my learners, but I can tell you that my classroom is inviting and I feel pretty confident that my learners "get it." That's more than I can say for what I saw here.
Where Did the Time Go?
Oh my goodness, it's been almost a month since I wrote anything and not only that, but my time here in Italy is almost over! I head home in just a matter of days (5 to be exact). I have had the time of my life and I've been so blessed to have these opportunities. I have a list of things I want to write about and so I'm going to attempt to post several blogs in the next few days to try and catch you up on all that's been happening and all that I've been feeling. The long and short of it is this:
-I visited Franciacorta Wine Country with great friends
-I taught lessons both on Gia's stories and Charleston, SC to the highschoolers at Matteo's school, Alexis Carrel Lyceo (spent three weeks volunteering off and on)
-I went to Marrakech, Morocco with my dear friend Katy
-I worked on resumes and cover letters with an Italian friend (just goes to show how God puts people in your life for a reason)
-I learned about the most amazing gelatto place just last night!
-I bonded, really bonded, with the kids here (of course just before heading home)
-I was reminded time and time again how lucky I am
-I've been working on some great ideas for Gia and making her a bit bigger than she is (Rick Steves, Foders, etc.)
Now, I doubt I'll get to write a full blog on each of these topics and the other ideas that are floating around in my head, but I'll do my best to catch you up. Stay tuned for more to come!
-I visited Franciacorta Wine Country with great friends
-I taught lessons both on Gia's stories and Charleston, SC to the highschoolers at Matteo's school, Alexis Carrel Lyceo (spent three weeks volunteering off and on)
-I went to Marrakech, Morocco with my dear friend Katy
-I worked on resumes and cover letters with an Italian friend (just goes to show how God puts people in your life for a reason)
-I learned about the most amazing gelatto place just last night!
-I bonded, really bonded, with the kids here (of course just before heading home)
-I was reminded time and time again how lucky I am
-I've been working on some great ideas for Gia and making her a bit bigger than she is (Rick Steves, Foders, etc.)
Now, I doubt I'll get to write a full blog on each of these topics and the other ideas that are floating around in my head, but I'll do my best to catch you up. Stay tuned for more to come!
Wednesday, April 11, 2012
Budapest: Hungary for More!
I've always wanted to visit Budapest and for years now I've been talking about it. My roommate in college, Sarah, went with her parents when we were living together and I remember her bragging about how amazing it was. I spent a month in Prague in July of 2008 and thought I'd get the chance to head to Hungary then, but unfortunately, I never did. A few weeks ago I started thinking about the time I'd have off for spring break and I searched flights to many nearby countries. I considered Croatia, Switzerland and many others, but Budapest ended up being the place I chose. The flight wasn't so expensive and being that I had 6 full days off, I thought it'd be the perfect time to go.
Last Thursday evening, I took the bus/metro/coach/airplane to Budapest and arrived in town late that evening around midnight or shortly after. I had researched before arriving and I knew there was a shuttle that I could get to my hostel, even that late at night. Sure enough, I got my tickets and I headed towards the Jewish district. I had booked two nights at the Treestyle Hostel which was in a perfect location. The two different staff members I dealt with throughout my time there were super helpful and the hostel itself was decently nice. I say decently because I have pretty high standards when it comes to cleanliness and I was disappointed that the bathrooms weren't all that clean, but for the price of the place, it wasn't something I complained about. I was just very careful to keep my flip flops on when I was walking around to and from showers, etc.
I woke up on Friday morning and headed out towards the city center. I had picked up a brochure for Free Walking Tours and I new which direction to head since I had downloaded a few free apps on my iphone. I walked first past the second largest synagogue in the world, the Dohany Street Synagogue, and then on towards the downtown area. I had my map, but I more or less walked aimlessly for the first part of the day. I took pictures along the Danube of Castle Hill, the Chain Bridge, the Royal Palace, etc. I got a few shots of interesting architecture. I made my way down Vaci St and then to the Great Central Market. This was such a cool place. I had time to walk around the many stalls and bought a couple of souvenirs as well as some dried fruit (which lasted me all the way through my flight home yesterday). The dried pineapple was my favorite, but I also had apricots that were quite tasty.
After the market I walked around a bit more looking for a place to have lunch. I found a side street with a restaurant (I try to steer clear of main roads when I'm looking for food in a new place) and "settled for" the goulash. In all honesty, it wasn't settling as it's just what I wanted. I ordered a bowl which came with bread and I also got a nice big beer. The goulash was good, but not as flavorful as I expected. Maybe it was the restaurant's take on it, maybe it was a watered down version, I don't know, but I was expecting a bit of a kick and there was none.
I wanted to do the afternoon free walking tour of the city so I went over to the square at St Stephens Basilica a bit early, stopped at a Starbucks for a treat and free wifi, and waited for the tour to begin. It lasted from 2:30-5:30 and was SO GOOD. We walked all over and got great tips on the city, an abundance of history and other useful information, and ended the tour up near the Fisherman's Wharf.
One of the guides mentioned that he was in a band and playing that night, so I decided to head back to the hostel to nap and then I went out to hear him play. The show was at this place called the Drunken Taylor which was a 15-20 minute walk from my hostel. I went alone and got a beer at the bar, then immediately heard some English coming from a nearby booth, so I ended up making small talk and they invited me to join them. There were three American girls and their couch surfing hosts from Budapest. Others joined but I didn't really chat with them too much. It was a fun evening as I love any kind of live music and I had "friends" to talk with so I really enjoyed myself.
Saturday morning I got up and had to check out of the hostel so my new adventure began when Eszter (my Air BnB host) came to pick me up. We walked about 5 minutes to the apartment I was renting a room in for the remainder of my stay. I settled in there quickly and then headed out to hit a few of the places I'd seen on the previous day's tour but wanted better pictures of (it had rained during most of our walk so pics were a bit dark). I also wanted to get a better idea of the city so I'd know exactly where I was going the next few days. I headed down the Champs Elysees of Budapest (Andrassy Ave) and went to the House of Terror. It's a museum dedicated to those who fell victim to the communists. Nice museum, although I wish I had more knowledge before I went because it was hard to follow some of the information.
After the museum I planned to do another free walking tour but the weather was bad and I was quite cold so I had lunch (sausage from a street vendor) and wandered over to the basilica again to have a cup of hot chocolate and get out of the rain. It was the best hot chocolate I've ever tasted. Milk chocolate with orange and it was thick and creamy and delicious. So good I went back on Monday for another cup! I was freezing even after the coco so I decided to go home and change into my bathing suit to hit the Szechenyi Baths (warm water and steam rooms on a rainy day sounded like a good idea). Back in February, I wrote about the crazy experience of visiting Acqua World with Matteo for his birthday. The baths in Budapest were an older version of this, minus the water slides.
After you pay the front desk, you walk into a locker room for both sexes where you find a tiny room with two doors, one on each side of you. The stalls reminded me of where the horses are kept before a race. You change and, "on your mark, get set, go" to the pools. Walking around in a bathing suit has never been one of my favorite past times and neither is sitting in a pool with hundreds of other strangers. I can manage a friend's pool or a pool at an apartment complex if there are a few people, but this is not the same thing. You wander around until, like Goldilocks, you find a pool with just the right temperature. You settle into a nice spot with your new friends all soaking in one another's filth. It grosses me out just thinking about it. I lasted about 10 minutes before I got up and headed to a sauna. At least here you're not floating around in that water. Staying in the sauna would have been the best bet for me, but after half an hour I was a bit dehydrated and dizzy so I headed back out to the pools. I had booked an evening massage so I had about an hour to fill so back to the cesspool it was...ick. All of this is made worse when you're alone and thinking about it rather than talking with friends and enjoying what's meant to be a relaxing time. Luckily, I had two Americans on my right and not long after sitting down, a Scottish guy came and plopped next to me on the left. I chatted with all the guys a bit and the time passed a bit more quickly. Then the "fun" began.
I went upstairs and sat (again I'm only in my bathing suit) in the waiting room/lobby for my massage. After 15 minutes or so the receptionist (I guess you can call her that) escorts me to a room. I'm told to lie down face first and take off my top. This leave me with only my bottoms on and did I mention I'm not on a table with a sheet, but rather a pad on the floor and nothing to cover with. A few minutes later I hear an "Ok?" from outside the curtain. I said yes and in enters my massage therapist. I don't see him, but he quickly straddles me, yes, that's what I said, and begins his massage. Other than the fact that I've got a stranger sitting on my back while I'm half naked, I am able to relax a little and get into the massage. He never speaks and after an hour of work, he disappears. Not a word. I'm left, still half naked, lying on the floor wondering what to do next. I've had some crazy massages all over the world now but this, by far, was one of the weirdest. There was that time in China Town in London, but I digress. After I put my top back on I walked back to the locker rooms to get changed and I headed home for a much needed shower. I think I spent half an hour bathing trying to get the water, and the memory of the stranger, off my skin.
I went out to dinner on Saturday night at a place called 400 which was about 5 minutes from the apartment. The food was good, not fantastic, but decent. I had a Serbian burger that the bartender suggested. I had three giant beers over the course of a few hours and I met a lovely girl from Budapest and a nice guy (bartender) from Spain. He was funny because he asked me early on in the night why I was alone, then he made a point to come back to me several times and ask more questions...each time sneaking up on me from another direction. He was also busing tables so he was wandering around the place a bit. It was a funny night and I was given tons of suggestions about where to go after, but given that I was in rain boots and a cardigan, I didn't think clubbing was an option. I also planned to get up early for church the next day so I went home around 11.
Sunday morning came and I headed out to a cafe on Andrassy before going to church. I ended up sitting at a table next to four American girls (English teachers in Spain) and chatting with them a few minutes over tea before I walked to church. I had found this English speaking Scottish Presbyterian church on the web and because it was near, decided to check it out for Easter Sunday. I walked in an the pastor greeted me in an obvious American accent. I sat through the service trying my best to focus on his sermon but very distracted by a little boy who literally was running down the aisle screaming and stomping his feet. His father didn't do anything but yell his name a few times. I don't know how the pastor was able to concentrate on his message but I sure kept praying that the Lord would take care of that distraction. It was nearly impossible to focus. We had the Lord's supper at the end of the service and I was able to stay after for lunch. As I was talking to the pastor, I learned that not only was he American, but he's from Florence, SC! What a small world. It's crazy that the one church I chose was a place where someone from my state was preaching. The Lord works in mysterious ways for sure.
After our Easter dinner of ham, pasta salad, and an assortment of soups, I offered to do the dishes. I thought I'd start and someone else would join me, but no, I was at the church for an hour or more after we ate washing everyone's plates! There was a cute little man who was from Serbia, I think, who put an apron on me and he did actually dry the dishes and put them all away. I guess he wanted to thank me for my help because he went and got the chalice of wine from the Lord's supper and offered it to me! Then the pastor came in later and gave me a box of jelly beans as a thank you. Too funny.
Hmmm...Sunday afternoon was a good one as I went home to change into warmer clothes and then met the free walking tours for the Jewish tour. It lasted the same amount of time but was led by a different guide and went only through the Jewish district. We saw some great places of historic relevance, but also learned about some cool, trendy new places called ruin bars. We visited one called Szimpla, which is where we ended our tour. It's the neatest place, like a junk yard really, but super cool bar space. I didn't drink anything there, but rather asked the guide where to get dinner and went to Koleves just down the road. I hadn't eaten much at lunch at church so I ordered a salad and a venison stew. Delicious. After this huge meal and a beer, I went home and called it a night. It was early, only like 7, but I was exhausted. I watched a few movies in Hungarian, and I'll say that even in a foreign language, Marley and Me is a tear jerker!
Monday morning I got up and headed out full stop. I went back to Castle Hill for better pics (sunshine finally) and had my pastry horn. I walked down to the cafe, Puncs, where I had the amazing hot chocolate before and this time ordered one with cinnamon. I sat inside out of the cold waiting for the communist tour to begin, but I was a wimp and went home out of the cold instead. I had checked weather prior to the trip and I expected rain, but not the temperature we had. Don't tell Carol Poole this, but on my last day, I took a two or three hour nap! I just couldn't walk any more.
After I woke up I went out to Hero's Square and walked around the city park a bit so I'd feel like I was accomplishing a bit more sightseeing then I had dinner at a place that a friend had suggested. I had two glasses of Hungarian wine, the chicken paprikash, and a huge chocolate fondant at Cafe Vian. Perfect way to spend a few hours my last night in town.
I went back to the house and tried to pack and go to bed early, but I didn't sleep much that night. I woke up at 3:15 on Tuesday morning to get my coach back to the airport for a 6 am flight. Standing on the street waiting for the driver, a nice British boy came by and asked if I was ok. He and I made small talk after his friend walked away and before the driver came and I was off.
When I went to Dublin I smiled, rather foolishly and uncontrollably, riding in the coach from the airport. Somehow, even heading back to a place I am not super thrilled to be living, I had that same giddy smile on my face. I think it hit me that I'm going home in 33 days and I just was so thankful to have had such an amazing time in Budapest. I've learned so much about myself this past year and it's such a blessing that I've been able to do it traveling the world. I've learned to really appreciate all the opportunities I've had and although I've had plenty of journeys, I'm still "hungary for more."
Last Thursday evening, I took the bus/metro/coach/airplane to Budapest and arrived in town late that evening around midnight or shortly after. I had researched before arriving and I knew there was a shuttle that I could get to my hostel, even that late at night. Sure enough, I got my tickets and I headed towards the Jewish district. I had booked two nights at the Treestyle Hostel which was in a perfect location. The two different staff members I dealt with throughout my time there were super helpful and the hostel itself was decently nice. I say decently because I have pretty high standards when it comes to cleanliness and I was disappointed that the bathrooms weren't all that clean, but for the price of the place, it wasn't something I complained about. I was just very careful to keep my flip flops on when I was walking around to and from showers, etc.
I woke up on Friday morning and headed out towards the city center. I had picked up a brochure for Free Walking Tours and I new which direction to head since I had downloaded a few free apps on my iphone. I walked first past the second largest synagogue in the world, the Dohany Street Synagogue, and then on towards the downtown area. I had my map, but I more or less walked aimlessly for the first part of the day. I took pictures along the Danube of Castle Hill, the Chain Bridge, the Royal Palace, etc. I got a few shots of interesting architecture. I made my way down Vaci St and then to the Great Central Market. This was such a cool place. I had time to walk around the many stalls and bought a couple of souvenirs as well as some dried fruit (which lasted me all the way through my flight home yesterday). The dried pineapple was my favorite, but I also had apricots that were quite tasty.
After the market I walked around a bit more looking for a place to have lunch. I found a side street with a restaurant (I try to steer clear of main roads when I'm looking for food in a new place) and "settled for" the goulash. In all honesty, it wasn't settling as it's just what I wanted. I ordered a bowl which came with bread and I also got a nice big beer. The goulash was good, but not as flavorful as I expected. Maybe it was the restaurant's take on it, maybe it was a watered down version, I don't know, but I was expecting a bit of a kick and there was none.
I wanted to do the afternoon free walking tour of the city so I went over to the square at St Stephens Basilica a bit early, stopped at a Starbucks for a treat and free wifi, and waited for the tour to begin. It lasted from 2:30-5:30 and was SO GOOD. We walked all over and got great tips on the city, an abundance of history and other useful information, and ended the tour up near the Fisherman's Wharf.
One of the guides mentioned that he was in a band and playing that night, so I decided to head back to the hostel to nap and then I went out to hear him play. The show was at this place called the Drunken Taylor which was a 15-20 minute walk from my hostel. I went alone and got a beer at the bar, then immediately heard some English coming from a nearby booth, so I ended up making small talk and they invited me to join them. There were three American girls and their couch surfing hosts from Budapest. Others joined but I didn't really chat with them too much. It was a fun evening as I love any kind of live music and I had "friends" to talk with so I really enjoyed myself.
Saturday morning I got up and had to check out of the hostel so my new adventure began when Eszter (my Air BnB host) came to pick me up. We walked about 5 minutes to the apartment I was renting a room in for the remainder of my stay. I settled in there quickly and then headed out to hit a few of the places I'd seen on the previous day's tour but wanted better pictures of (it had rained during most of our walk so pics were a bit dark). I also wanted to get a better idea of the city so I'd know exactly where I was going the next few days. I headed down the Champs Elysees of Budapest (Andrassy Ave) and went to the House of Terror. It's a museum dedicated to those who fell victim to the communists. Nice museum, although I wish I had more knowledge before I went because it was hard to follow some of the information.
After the museum I planned to do another free walking tour but the weather was bad and I was quite cold so I had lunch (sausage from a street vendor) and wandered over to the basilica again to have a cup of hot chocolate and get out of the rain. It was the best hot chocolate I've ever tasted. Milk chocolate with orange and it was thick and creamy and delicious. So good I went back on Monday for another cup! I was freezing even after the coco so I decided to go home and change into my bathing suit to hit the Szechenyi Baths (warm water and steam rooms on a rainy day sounded like a good idea). Back in February, I wrote about the crazy experience of visiting Acqua World with Matteo for his birthday. The baths in Budapest were an older version of this, minus the water slides.
After you pay the front desk, you walk into a locker room for both sexes where you find a tiny room with two doors, one on each side of you. The stalls reminded me of where the horses are kept before a race. You change and, "on your mark, get set, go" to the pools. Walking around in a bathing suit has never been one of my favorite past times and neither is sitting in a pool with hundreds of other strangers. I can manage a friend's pool or a pool at an apartment complex if there are a few people, but this is not the same thing. You wander around until, like Goldilocks, you find a pool with just the right temperature. You settle into a nice spot with your new friends all soaking in one another's filth. It grosses me out just thinking about it. I lasted about 10 minutes before I got up and headed to a sauna. At least here you're not floating around in that water. Staying in the sauna would have been the best bet for me, but after half an hour I was a bit dehydrated and dizzy so I headed back out to the pools. I had booked an evening massage so I had about an hour to fill so back to the cesspool it was...ick. All of this is made worse when you're alone and thinking about it rather than talking with friends and enjoying what's meant to be a relaxing time. Luckily, I had two Americans on my right and not long after sitting down, a Scottish guy came and plopped next to me on the left. I chatted with all the guys a bit and the time passed a bit more quickly. Then the "fun" began.
I went upstairs and sat (again I'm only in my bathing suit) in the waiting room/lobby for my massage. After 15 minutes or so the receptionist (I guess you can call her that) escorts me to a room. I'm told to lie down face first and take off my top. This leave me with only my bottoms on and did I mention I'm not on a table with a sheet, but rather a pad on the floor and nothing to cover with. A few minutes later I hear an "Ok?" from outside the curtain. I said yes and in enters my massage therapist. I don't see him, but he quickly straddles me, yes, that's what I said, and begins his massage. Other than the fact that I've got a stranger sitting on my back while I'm half naked, I am able to relax a little and get into the massage. He never speaks and after an hour of work, he disappears. Not a word. I'm left, still half naked, lying on the floor wondering what to do next. I've had some crazy massages all over the world now but this, by far, was one of the weirdest. There was that time in China Town in London, but I digress. After I put my top back on I walked back to the locker rooms to get changed and I headed home for a much needed shower. I think I spent half an hour bathing trying to get the water, and the memory of the stranger, off my skin.
I went out to dinner on Saturday night at a place called 400 which was about 5 minutes from the apartment. The food was good, not fantastic, but decent. I had a Serbian burger that the bartender suggested. I had three giant beers over the course of a few hours and I met a lovely girl from Budapest and a nice guy (bartender) from Spain. He was funny because he asked me early on in the night why I was alone, then he made a point to come back to me several times and ask more questions...each time sneaking up on me from another direction. He was also busing tables so he was wandering around the place a bit. It was a funny night and I was given tons of suggestions about where to go after, but given that I was in rain boots and a cardigan, I didn't think clubbing was an option. I also planned to get up early for church the next day so I went home around 11.
Sunday morning came and I headed out to a cafe on Andrassy before going to church. I ended up sitting at a table next to four American girls (English teachers in Spain) and chatting with them a few minutes over tea before I walked to church. I had found this English speaking Scottish Presbyterian church on the web and because it was near, decided to check it out for Easter Sunday. I walked in an the pastor greeted me in an obvious American accent. I sat through the service trying my best to focus on his sermon but very distracted by a little boy who literally was running down the aisle screaming and stomping his feet. His father didn't do anything but yell his name a few times. I don't know how the pastor was able to concentrate on his message but I sure kept praying that the Lord would take care of that distraction. It was nearly impossible to focus. We had the Lord's supper at the end of the service and I was able to stay after for lunch. As I was talking to the pastor, I learned that not only was he American, but he's from Florence, SC! What a small world. It's crazy that the one church I chose was a place where someone from my state was preaching. The Lord works in mysterious ways for sure.
After our Easter dinner of ham, pasta salad, and an assortment of soups, I offered to do the dishes. I thought I'd start and someone else would join me, but no, I was at the church for an hour or more after we ate washing everyone's plates! There was a cute little man who was from Serbia, I think, who put an apron on me and he did actually dry the dishes and put them all away. I guess he wanted to thank me for my help because he went and got the chalice of wine from the Lord's supper and offered it to me! Then the pastor came in later and gave me a box of jelly beans as a thank you. Too funny.
Hmmm...Sunday afternoon was a good one as I went home to change into warmer clothes and then met the free walking tours for the Jewish tour. It lasted the same amount of time but was led by a different guide and went only through the Jewish district. We saw some great places of historic relevance, but also learned about some cool, trendy new places called ruin bars. We visited one called Szimpla, which is where we ended our tour. It's the neatest place, like a junk yard really, but super cool bar space. I didn't drink anything there, but rather asked the guide where to get dinner and went to Koleves just down the road. I hadn't eaten much at lunch at church so I ordered a salad and a venison stew. Delicious. After this huge meal and a beer, I went home and called it a night. It was early, only like 7, but I was exhausted. I watched a few movies in Hungarian, and I'll say that even in a foreign language, Marley and Me is a tear jerker!
Monday morning I got up and headed out full stop. I went back to Castle Hill for better pics (sunshine finally) and had my pastry horn. I walked down to the cafe, Puncs, where I had the amazing hot chocolate before and this time ordered one with cinnamon. I sat inside out of the cold waiting for the communist tour to begin, but I was a wimp and went home out of the cold instead. I had checked weather prior to the trip and I expected rain, but not the temperature we had. Don't tell Carol Poole this, but on my last day, I took a two or three hour nap! I just couldn't walk any more.
After I woke up I went out to Hero's Square and walked around the city park a bit so I'd feel like I was accomplishing a bit more sightseeing then I had dinner at a place that a friend had suggested. I had two glasses of Hungarian wine, the chicken paprikash, and a huge chocolate fondant at Cafe Vian. Perfect way to spend a few hours my last night in town.
I went back to the house and tried to pack and go to bed early, but I didn't sleep much that night. I woke up at 3:15 on Tuesday morning to get my coach back to the airport for a 6 am flight. Standing on the street waiting for the driver, a nice British boy came by and asked if I was ok. He and I made small talk after his friend walked away and before the driver came and I was off.
When I went to Dublin I smiled, rather foolishly and uncontrollably, riding in the coach from the airport. Somehow, even heading back to a place I am not super thrilled to be living, I had that same giddy smile on my face. I think it hit me that I'm going home in 33 days and I just was so thankful to have had such an amazing time in Budapest. I've learned so much about myself this past year and it's such a blessing that I've been able to do it traveling the world. I've learned to really appreciate all the opportunities I've had and although I've had plenty of journeys, I'm still "hungary for more."
Thursday, April 5, 2012
In Good Company
Two years ago, just before Easter, I joined First Baptist Church of Mt. Pleasant, SC. I had been visiting off and on, but after a pretty big scare with a friend, I committed to get back to church where I belonged. I really enjoyed the fellowship I had with my new church family, and just like leaving my friends and biological family, I had a hard time saying goodbye to them.
When I arrived in Dublin, I was pleasantly surprised to find a nice church just minutes from my apartment. It was a small congregation, but a friendly one. I attended almost every Sunday while I was in Ireland. I really enjoyed making friends there and having that time each week. It was especially nice, when on my last Sunday with them, the pastor made the announcement that I'd be leaving and they all said goodbye and gave best wishes.
Coming to Italy has been a little different for me. I didn't seek out a church because I assumed, and was too lazy to research it, that it would be difficult for me to find an English speaking church. I've watched my pastor from home on a few internet sermons, but I haven't made the effort to get out there and find a church. With Easter quickly approaching, I was beginning to feel even more disconnected from my Christian family. My friend Katy and I attempted to go to a Palm Sunday evening service last week, but we arrived at the church only to find they weren't holding evening services. It was a disappointment for sure. Even though it was in Italian, it would have been nice to attend.
As I was walking home the other day, I passed my neighbor, and elderly woman from NY. I don't know why it didn't occur to me before, but she has lived here 40+ years and she's American, she must know where an English church would be. Sure enough, not one hour after I asked her, she brought me the name of an Episcopal church very near the Duomo. I checked the website that night and found that they were holding an "English for Fun" meeting on Tuesday night (that would be the next night). I was so excited! I told Katy, and on Tuesday, we headed over to the church.
It was a bit of a let down in the sense that there was no Christian fellowship, no prayer, nothing at all resembling a church meeting, BUT it was a great time. There were four Italian women, one Irish woman (you know I loved her) and two British men, one my age. The meeting was/is held to help non-native speakers learn English. It wasn't a lesson, but games to encourage speaking. We were given crepes with Nutella and wine, which I found hilarious. The meeting was in the church after all. I'm just not used to that being a Southern Baptist! The strangest part of the evening was at the end when the leader said, "we like to encourage you to give a little something to help support the church, so if you'll put 10 euro in the basket, we'd appreciate it." I wouldn't have minded giving an offering, but again, I would have appreciated a prayer or blessing or something to quench my thirst for Christian fellowship! It was also strange that they were "encouraging" us to give, but then specified exactly what to give. Oh well, it was an interesting evening and it got me out of the house for a few hours so I'm happy I went. I'll certainly try one of the Sunday sermons over at All Saints Anglican Episcopal Church, and oddly enough, Katy found another English church for us to try! I'm also excited because I've found a Scottish Presbyterian Church to attend in Budapest for Easter...I'm just determined to get to church soon, and be in the company of other Christians.
When I arrived in Dublin, I was pleasantly surprised to find a nice church just minutes from my apartment. It was a small congregation, but a friendly one. I attended almost every Sunday while I was in Ireland. I really enjoyed making friends there and having that time each week. It was especially nice, when on my last Sunday with them, the pastor made the announcement that I'd be leaving and they all said goodbye and gave best wishes.
Coming to Italy has been a little different for me. I didn't seek out a church because I assumed, and was too lazy to research it, that it would be difficult for me to find an English speaking church. I've watched my pastor from home on a few internet sermons, but I haven't made the effort to get out there and find a church. With Easter quickly approaching, I was beginning to feel even more disconnected from my Christian family. My friend Katy and I attempted to go to a Palm Sunday evening service last week, but we arrived at the church only to find they weren't holding evening services. It was a disappointment for sure. Even though it was in Italian, it would have been nice to attend.
As I was walking home the other day, I passed my neighbor, and elderly woman from NY. I don't know why it didn't occur to me before, but she has lived here 40+ years and she's American, she must know where an English church would be. Sure enough, not one hour after I asked her, she brought me the name of an Episcopal church very near the Duomo. I checked the website that night and found that they were holding an "English for Fun" meeting on Tuesday night (that would be the next night). I was so excited! I told Katy, and on Tuesday, we headed over to the church.
It was a bit of a let down in the sense that there was no Christian fellowship, no prayer, nothing at all resembling a church meeting, BUT it was a great time. There were four Italian women, one Irish woman (you know I loved her) and two British men, one my age. The meeting was/is held to help non-native speakers learn English. It wasn't a lesson, but games to encourage speaking. We were given crepes with Nutella and wine, which I found hilarious. The meeting was in the church after all. I'm just not used to that being a Southern Baptist! The strangest part of the evening was at the end when the leader said, "we like to encourage you to give a little something to help support the church, so if you'll put 10 euro in the basket, we'd appreciate it." I wouldn't have minded giving an offering, but again, I would have appreciated a prayer or blessing or something to quench my thirst for Christian fellowship! It was also strange that they were "encouraging" us to give, but then specified exactly what to give. Oh well, it was an interesting evening and it got me out of the house for a few hours so I'm happy I went. I'll certainly try one of the Sunday sermons over at All Saints Anglican Episcopal Church, and oddly enough, Katy found another English church for us to try! I'm also excited because I've found a Scottish Presbyterian Church to attend in Budapest for Easter...I'm just determined to get to church soon, and be in the company of other Christians.
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